|
The Murut of Sabah
Though being the third largest indigenous group in Sabah little is
known about the Murut and even less has been written on them. Once
they were feared headhunters, later courageous police in the North
Borneo Chartered Company constabulary. But nowadays most Murut have
embraced a life closer to towns than to their native jungle in the
hinterlands of Sabah. Yet, their ancient and proud life is still full
of traditions and festivities in which the Murut show their
unparalleled hospitality and rich customs. For this, many of those
living in towns and pursuing remunerated employment will go back to
their kampung, to their longhouses where their extended families still
live according to the rhythm of old, where the year is still ruled by
the rice cycle and their hunting expeditions.
The Murut are mainly found in Sabah (Keningau, Tenom, Pensiangan, but
also Kalabakan and Kinabatangan), where they account for about 2.9% of
her population, or around 50,000 people. Tribes of Murutic origin also
live in Brunei, Sarawak and Kalimantan, all in the border area of the
three countries. Traditionally the Murut live in longhouses with a
unique feature: the lansaran, an indigenous trampoline! The
Murut dwellings were built along rivers, and to this day the Murut are
expert boat makers and still use the rivers in Sabah’s interior as
their main arteries. Because they have lived for generations a rather
secluded life they have developed an amazing linguistic diversity, and
also wide varieties in dresses and other traditions. One thing,
however, is for sure: a hundred years ago they were all avid
headhunters and their name still invokes a certain awe amongst other
Sabah ethnic entities. Headhunting amongst the Murut was part of their
initiation rites: a young man only could get married when he had
vanquished his first enemy. If the head came from an enemy or not,
that was a different question, rarely asked…
Headhunting was outlawed under the British, who conscribed the Murut
into their police service where they were loyal and courageous.
However, the British constabulary frowned upon tattoos, which once was
part of Murut culture just as much as the Iban in neighbouring Sarawak
mark themselves in rank and prestige with tattoos. Eventually, the
Murut tattoo and with it its intrinsic meaning disappeared, but
joining the Malaysian Police Force, or the Armed Forces, is still very
popular amongst Murut youth.
The Murut are also formidable hosts, and nothing equals a Murut
wedding here in Sabah. Lavish to exuberant, weddings are a display of
wealth and richness, and even in our modern times they can last for a
week or longer. And because such a simple week-long wedding party
hardly can satisfy anybody marriage customs have it that they are
celebrated in stages. The
Tina’uh or
Bului “renewal-marriage” may be some five to twenty years after the
initial marriage and normally signifies the last instalment of the
dowry that was requested by the parents of the bride. To keep villages
busy with wedding preparations many Murut men still practise polygamy…
The Murut celebrate with equal dedication Christmas, New Year, the
harvest festival and even funerals. To all these festivities, which
are truly a display of a long cultural heritage, travellers are
heartily welcome! These occasions are about the best opportunities to
learn more about the ancient cultural patchwork of the Murut, and also
to sample their traditional foods, from fragrant hill-rice over
tapioca pudding and pickled meats and fish, ferns and wild pineapples,
and of course also tapai – the preferred party drink of the Murut.
Tours
An
adventurous cultural tour with overnight in Murut Longhouses is the
Batu Punggul Pinnacles
3d/2n package, a journey full of surprises and discoveries!
The Road to Salinatan also
takes you into the Murut headlands and is a great journey of adventure
and exotic cultures.
Murut Ethnic Entities in Sabah
1. Murut Keningau, Daerah Keningau.
2. Murut Beaufort, Daerah Beaufort
3. Murut Baukan, Daerah Keningau.
4. Murut Timugon, Daerah Tenom.
5. Murut Paluan, Daerah Keningau.
6. Murut Tagal, Daerah Sipitang.
7. Murut Tahol, Daerah Tenom.
8. Murut Kolod, Daerah Keningau.
9. Murut Naabai, Daerah Pensiangan.
10. Murut Sembakung, Daerah Pensiangan.
11. Murut Sinambu, Daerah Pensiangan.
12. Murut Selungai, Daerah Pensiangan.
13. Murut Kalabakan, Daerah Tawau.
14. Murut Serudung, Daerah Tawau.
Texts and photos by Herman Scholz
|
Special Offer
MEMBERS
Register
TRAVELGUIDE
TRAVELMART 
MEDIA