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 If
you are planning to visit this route, there are many stop over places
along the Kota Kinabalu-Tambunan Highway. If you are only
planning to go as far as Tambunan town, the first stop will be at
Gunung Alab, where there are a couple of restaurants serving a variety
of oriental dishes. The two mountain restaurants do offer rooms
for overnight stays, but they are usually patronised only by locals.
Many travellers on their way to Tambunan or from Tambunan to Kota Kinabalu
will stop over for a break and for food. The restaurants' altitude
boasts a cool climate which is a great break-away from the heat for many
locals. On a clear day, one has also a spectacular view of majestic sunsets,
and one can see as far as Kota
Kinabalu and its islands.
As you cross
the Sunsuron Pass you will find on the right side of the road a small visitor's
center which is on the northern boundary of the Crocker Range Forest Reserve. A number
of wild orchids have been transplanted here, and can be spotted along several
short, easy trails.
  After
refreshments, be sure to stop at the attractive and informative display centre
at the Rafflesia Reserve, where you can learn about the weirdest flower imaginable: a
parasitic plant which takes months to develop a flower up to almost one meter in
diameter and which smells like rotten meat. You may be lucky and have only a
five-minute walk to see a Rafflesia in bloom, or you may have to walk for up to
1 1/2 hours in very steep terrain. The Rafflesia Reserve is under the
management of the Sabah Forestry Department. There are
some well known sites at the edge of the park, only
a few minutes' walk from the main highway where this huge blossoms can
be seen, if you are lucky. The Rafflesia Reserve imposes no entrance
fees, but you have to take a guide at RM 20.
  The
Rafflesia is a parasitic plant, without leaves, roots or a stem of
its own. It gets its food from the forest vines (Tetrastigma) on which it
grows. Buds emerge from inside the roots of the vine an take
nine to 21 months to grow before the flower opens. But after only a
few days, the flower fades and dies. While there is no
particular flowering season for Rafflesia, most flowers are recorded
in August to October as the buds, highly susceptible to rot in wet
weather, have a higher chance to develop during the dry season.
However, flowers can, and do, appear at any time of the year. The Rafflesia
can only be found in Borneo, Indonesia, Malaysia, the Philippines and
Thailand, and there are several different species.
Pass the Rafflesia Forest Reserve and you come to Kampung Sinsuron
with its terraced padi fields. Depending on the
season, the view can be spectacular: during the planting season, the
entire fields are very, very green. Just before the village there
is a stretch of stalls selling locally produced fresh vegetables and
fruits. Do stop and check out the local delicacies on sale. A
speciality of the Kadazandusun is 'tuhau', a relish made of pickled
wild ginger stems. During season, you will also find conserved
bambangan (a wild mango), and pickled fish - the curious traveller
might smell at it, but be warned, the latter is for the acquired taste
and quite strong!
 When
you reach the Tambunan Valley with its padi fields,
after the junction to Ranau, turn right and look out for the Mat Salleh Memorial.
It is to to your right if you are travelling to Tambunan town,
about 70 km from Kota Kinabalu. The memorial is on the actual site of a fort built by Mat Salleh,
sometimes also called "North Borneo's First Native
Hero" (not to be confused
with the Peninsular Malaysian term for Caucasians). For six
years Mat Salleh led a rebellion against the Chartered Company
Administration, and his first major fort was in Ranau. The North
Borneo Constabulary besieged his his fort in Tambunan, and on
February 1st, 1900, during a fierce battle, Mat Salleh met his death.
The Sabah State Government erected a stone memorial in Tambunan town to commemorate Mat Salleh
and recognises him him as one of Sabah's earliest freedom fighters. The Memorial also exhibits some photographs and some of
his weapons and items related to the tragic battle.
There are
other attractions in Tambunan, such as the Musical Stones
at Kampung Solibog. The Tambunan Village Resort Centre
(TVRC) is just before you arrive in Tambunan. It is a great
place to relax or stay overnight. A particular place of interest within
TVRC is the Kilang Tapai, or rice wine factory. Learn
how this best known of all indigenous drinks is brewed! You can proceed
your journey back to Kota Kinabalu or you can drive further south to
the largest town in the interior of Sabah, Keningau.
Once, Keningau was were most of the timber industries were located.
However, due to
environment and conservation policies of the Government towards sustainable forest management,
the timber industry has greatly slowed down. If you have time, do visit Keningau and
Tenom with its major attractions such as the Murut Cultural Centre
and the
newly upgraded Sabah Agricultural Park. To find out more
click here to go
to the Tenom travel guide. |
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